A bucket list vacation of mine has always been traveling up the east coast with my dog and visiting the lighthouses posted along the Atlantic, stopping in Maine and devouring lobster until my blood is more melted butter than white and red blood cells. My girlfriend and I said, in 2019, that come the summer of 2020 we would do this. We would load the Jeep with our suitcases, the dogs, and hit the road! It was going to be a relaxing week-long adventure.
And then, yes, yes, you guessed it . . . the Corona-virus hit. It seemed a pointless journey by the time summer rolled around. Restaurants were either closed, or hit with extreme restrictive occupancy limits it didn't seem worth the money spent traveling.
I was hit with an alternative epitome. A day trip through New York. I proposed a route that traced Lake Ontario instead. Born and raised in Rochester, I lived ten minutes from Lake Ontario. Since my early twenties, I live even closer. The Great Lake is a blessing that often is overlooked, and under appreciated.
TIBBETTS POINT LIGHTHOUSE
One of the five Great Lakes in North America, Sandwiched between Canada and New York, it is the last in the Great Lakes chain. Lake Ontario is also the only Great Lake not to border the state of Michigan.We decided on driving from Rochester up to Cape Vincent, where the lake meets the St. Lawrence River. Once home to the Onondaga People, the cape was settled in 1801, and became a strategic point for the War of 1812, where our soldiers took a stand against the British on both the waters and surrounding land.
One of the most amazing things we experienced when we got out of the Jeep at the site, was the smell of the water. The aroma was completely different from Charlotte Beach, back home. I don't know if it was the smell of Lake Ontario mixed with the St. Lawrence that made the difference, but it was different. Stronger. Fresher. Even the water was bluer than I had ever seen when on the sandy beach back home.
Unfortunately most of the town was closed. There was a gas station open, but little else. (When I say little else, I mean there was no where to eat). We had been on the road for nearly three hours and were in the mood for food). Our first stop was the Tibbetts Point Lighthouse (above two pictures). Erected in 1827, it's lamps were lit using whale oil. The lighthouse is right at the water border of the St. Lawrence River and Lake Ontario. While there we used a coin-operated viewer and focused in on watching a giant freighter cross Lake Ontario and into the river bound for the Atlantic Ocean.
Above is an aerial image from Wikipedia, by an uncredited author. However, it shows clearly the towering beauty of the site. The circular structure stands 69 feet above the water! It may have been the first stop on our trip, but was one of my favorites, hands-down.
SELKIRK LIGHTHOUSE
It had been nearly a three hour drive from Rochester to Cape Vincent. That did not include stops along the way so our four-legged friends could stretch their legs, and do a little "business."
Before setting out to visit the next lighthouse on our list, the idea of getting a bite to eat sounded good. Gas station food was not going to cut it. We did ask a guy on a motorcycle where we could find someplace more native to eat. He pretty much gave us directions that would take us about a half-hour out of Cape Vincent.
At the time of the trip, I did not realize I would be doing a "travel" blog. Unfortunately some of the details will be askew. And it is a shame. I wanted to give props to a place we stopped to eat. It was a bar along a main stretch of road. The owners let us bring our dogs onto the outside patio while we ate. (With Covid, they had Zero other diners. We were like a breath of fresh air for them, I suppose). Sitting outside under a latticed roof we enjoyed a few cold beers and a wonderfully prepared battered fish fry. I wish, oh-how-I-wish I could remember the name of the place, or even what road we were on. Either way, I thank them for their hospitality.
After a hearty mean, we loaded up the Jeep with dogs and headed west on Route 3. We wanted to stop at the Horse Island Light, near Sackets Harbor. (That is how it is known. "Horse Island Light," or "Sackets Harbor Light.") Erected in 1831, the lighthouse is now privately owned. I was (and am still) not sure how to get to the island, and if we visited the island, would we be allowed near the property? (I will look into this and get back to you in the Part 2 of this blog). Anywhooo ...
At the mouth of the Salmon River, on land purchased from the Oneida, Onondaga, and Cayuga tribes in 1788. Alexander Selkirk, for whom the lighthouse is named after, spent four years as a castaway on an island off the coast of Chile. (The novel Robinson Crusoe, by Daniel Defoe, is loosely based on Selkirk's experience).
At the time of the trip, I did not realize I would be doing a "travel" blog. Unfortunately some of the details will be askew. And it is a shame. I wanted to give props to a place we stopped to eat. It was a bar along a main stretch of road. The owners let us bring our dogs onto the outside patio while we ate. (With Covid, they had Zero other diners. We were like a breath of fresh air for them, I suppose). Sitting outside under a latticed roof we enjoyed a few cold beers and a wonderfully prepared battered fish fry. I wish, oh-how-I-wish I could remember the name of the place, or even what road we were on. Either way, I thank them for their hospitality.
After a hearty mean, we loaded up the Jeep with dogs and headed west on Route 3. We wanted to stop at the Horse Island Light, near Sackets Harbor. (That is how it is known. "Horse Island Light," or "Sackets Harbor Light.") Erected in 1831, the lighthouse is now privately owned. I was (and am still) not sure how to get to the island, and if we visited the island, would we be allowed near the property? (I will look into this and get back to you in the Part 2 of this blog). Anywhooo ...
At the mouth of the Salmon River, on land purchased from the Oneida, Onondaga, and Cayuga tribes in 1788. Alexander Selkirk, for whom the lighthouse is named after, spent four years as a castaway on an island off the coast of Chile. (The novel Robinson Crusoe, by Daniel Defoe, is loosely based on Selkirk's experience).
On the day we visited, it seemed odd and uncomfortable as we circled the lighthouse with phone cameras, snapping pictures. On the lawn toward the back of the lighthouse was a covered grill, lawn chairs, and a bicycle. Obviously, whomever owned the lighthouse enjoyed some BBQ and bike rides around the beautiful town.
The entire time we were there, a handful of people were gathered in the parking lot talking. They kept their eyes on us. We had to look a bit ridiculous. Our dogs pulling us by the leashes anxious to explore the new smells, and us Ooohing and Ahhhhing at the sight of the beautiful brick lighthouse and the lake beyond.
We didn't stay too long. As I said, we were being watched. It was getting very, very hot out, and we were a police call away from getting hauled in for trespassing as I wanted to get. (Just kidding. I don't think we broke any trespass laws. It just felt a bit awkward).
We didn't stay too long. As I said, we were being watched. It was getting very, very hot out, and we were a police call away from getting hauled in for trespassing as I wanted to get. (Just kidding. I don't think we broke any trespass laws. It just felt a bit awkward).
OSWEGO WEST PIERHEAD LIGHTHOUSE
Photo by Cindy Fitzgerald
From looking at pictures on line, I was pretty jacked up about seeing the Oswego West Pierhead Lighthouse. The parking lot stopped at the H. Lee White Maritime Museum. The actual lighthouse was at the end of a long pier, fenced off from the general public. From the edge of the parking lot I could barely get a clean, crisp photo of the lighthouse. That was quite disappointing. There are lighthouse tours. But ... You guessed it. Closed because of The Covid.
Wikipedia explains that the lighthouse sits on a "massive concrete/masonry caisson that extends 17 feet above the mean surface of the lake. The caisson has three feet thick walls. The Superstructure has bolted steel plate and iron walls, roof, doors, window shutters. It has a one-story hipped roof living quarters with a three-story tower at the north east corner of the caisson."
A Caisson is a "watertight retaining structure used, for example, to work on the foundations of a bridge pier, for the construction of a concrete dam, or for the repair of ships. Caissons are constructed in such a way that the water can be pumped out, keeping the work environment dry."
Above is a photo I took of the lighthouse through the diamond shaped hole in a tall chain-link fence. The tours are a bit pricey when the museum is up and running, but I suppose worth it. I will be back. I will take the tour, and I will update the blog at that time.
A Caisson is a "watertight retaining structure used, for example, to work on the foundations of a bridge pier, for the construction of a concrete dam, or for the repair of ships. Caissons are constructed in such a way that the water can be pumped out, keeping the work environment dry."
Above is a photo I took of the lighthouse through the diamond shaped hole in a tall chain-link fence. The tours are a bit pricey when the museum is up and running, but I suppose worth it. I will be back. I will take the tour, and I will update the blog at that time.
SODUS LIGHTHOUSES
Somehow, on our journey, we totally missed the Sodus Outer Light. We saw it from a distance. It looked as if there was a pier leading to the tower, but I will be honest. It was around 90 degrees on this particular day. While the dogs were handling the trip pretty well, the people passengers were getting a little hot. It had something to do with my Jeep's A/C -- it was broken. We were traveling with windows down, but the breeze of hot air brought little relief.
We must have downed a case of bottled water that day! Thank Goodness I brought as much water as I did.
We did, however, make it to the Sodus Bay Lighthouse Museum. In 1824, Ishmael D. Hill, a veteran of the War of 1812, was appointed the Keeper of the lighthouse. By 1869 the $4,500 building deteriorated. With $14,000 approved by congress, the below stone structure was erected.
We did, however, make it to the Sodus Bay Lighthouse Museum. In 1824, Ishmael D. Hill, a veteran of the War of 1812, was appointed the Keeper of the lighthouse. By 1869 the $4,500 building deteriorated. With $14,000 approved by congress, the below stone structure was erected.
The lawn and flowers with the picket fence and arch, were meticulously kept
Under "normal" summer hours, the museum hosts a number of outdoor events. I have included a link. It may be worth getting on an email list to be kept apprised of open hours and events. (I know I have added my own email. I cannot wait to return).
GENESEE LIGHTHOUSE
Our day trip came to an end with the last lighthouse on our scheduled tour. The Genesee Lighthouse is literally right down the road from where I live. Walking distance. This particular lighthouse holds a special place in my heart. I have visited the museum many, many times. I have countless photos of the building. On a day back in 2000, I even conducted a book signing inside the museum for my first mystery novel, MIND PLAY.
At one time, the 1822 stone structure, sat at the mouth of the Genesee River, by Lake Ontario. Originally, 10 whale oil Argand lamps lit the light. (In 1853 the lamps were replaced with a Fresnel lens). However, in 1881, "the lighthouse was turned off. After nearby piers changed the mouth of the river." Currently, the lighthouse sits pretty far off the shoreline. I mean, from the top of the hill where it sits, you can see the river, but . . .
Still, it is my favorite of all lighthouses.
WRAP UP
At the time we set out, the plan was to spend two days traveling along the shoreline of Lake Ontario and visit all of the lighthouses from the St, Lawrence River west to the Niagara, and possibly hitting some along Lake Erie.The heat, and lack of air conditioning, put the (temporary) kibosh on the extended trip. We will still visit the other lighthouses. In fact, we plan to head back to the St. Lawrence and visit more lighthouse along that body of water, as well.
The ultimate goal had been to see the lighthouses along the Atlantic, up to Maine. This day-trip turned out to be a huge, educational, and fun experience that I cannot wait to duplicate in the spring. The pandemic may be causing people to go stir-crazy, but the truth is there are things you can do to get out of the house, and out of town for a bit, trips that won't require a two-week self-quarantine.
Be sure to stop back. I have more ideas, more things people can do. And hopefully, you learn a little while visiting!
Take care,
Phillip Tomasso III
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